Friday, December 20th, 2013
Francis Bay
Saint John
USVI
Well, they say that cruising is doing high-dollar boat maintenance in exotic locations. That has become true for us. We thought we were really getting ahead of things after mending all the things that broke on the passage down, but living on a boat the list never ends. Charlie fixed the toilet seat the guys broke while I mended torn cushions as we enjoyed North Sound and Norman Island. I also made some foot thongs for girl-friends.
Charlie had grown a moustache during the passage. You will be glad to know that his has now shaved it off, since for some reason it came in gray.
We went in to Nanny Cay Marina and spent a few days there using on-shore professionals to help with generator repair, parts for navigation system, fixing fiber-glass dings, inflatable dinghy repair, repaired a hatch that broke on the passage as a fish was landed. We also were able to visit with friends and shop for provisions, clean the decks with lots of fresh water and dine ashore. We certainly did our part to improve the economy of Tortola before we left there.
At Norman Island we saw Sandcastle, a yacht formerly owned by Tulsa people, and still charted by a number of Tulsa families.
Also here's a picture of Eye Candy, one of the Salty Dawg yachts that was anchored there with us. Andrew, Clair and Debbie, all from Tasmania, are aboard her. Squalls came though every so often.
We cleared out of the British Virgins on December 9th and cleared in to the US Virgins at Cruz Bay, Saint John and moved to Maho Bay the following day, where we stayed on a National Park Service mooring for a few days.
Between showers, as we snorkeled along the shore of Mary's Point we saw an octopus sitting in the front entrance of his little cavern, with a giant tulip shell that he was busy trying to extract the contents of for lunch. He was still working on it when we came back by half an hour later. We think we saw that same octopus a couple of years ago in the same place.
We left Francis Bay, and moved over to Caneel Bay, where we took the dinghy to Cruz Bay to take in my laptop computer that had stopped working. Then on to Christmas Cove on Saint James Island for a couple of days. Budget Marine let us know that they had replacement speakers for the cockpit in stock and so we dinghied over to Benner Bay (rain started again on the way) to pick them up and have lunch ashore.
We moved on to Charlotte Amalie on December 15th and anchored in the harbor there for another couple of days. KMart was able to separate us from more money - we've not been able to replace the pressure cooker that broke on the passage, but did get new bed sheets, turkey baster, iPad case. Also a few more groceries and another lunch out. We got fuel and water as well as doing laundry.
As we departed Charlotte Amalie harbor a US Coast Guard boat with five officers, all carrying arms, came alongside and two of the officers boarded us for a routine vessel safely inspection. We passed. They acted as if not many pass!
Departing the West Gregerie Channel, Ocean Of the Seas was entering. She's huge, and as we passed, we waved, and passengers waved back. Everyone now has their own balcony; whatever happen to portholes? Charlie observed that the people standing on their balconies seemed to be better looking and wear less clothes the higher up the ship they were. This was especially true of the penthouse deck (remember this the next cruise you book)(Charlie resolves to start caring his telephoto lens on deck).
We anchored overnight in Benner Bay, next to the Saint Thomas airport. A lovely anchorage, recommended by our friends on Meander, Wayne and Mary. Only one other cruiser there and a few local power-boats on moorings. Dolphins played in the bay and we had a very pleasant evening.
Next morning the anchor windlass failed. Charlie was able to rig a long line to the chain and I winched from the cockpit to get the anchor up. His back still hurts.
We motored into the wind and picked up a mooring in Francis Bay.
Once the new sound speaker was successfully installed, Charlie spent a day working on investigating the windlass. This required first removing all the items stored in the front of the boat (once upon a time that storage area was our second shower), removing the cabinet behind that storage area and getting into the cave behind the anchor locker. Good thing we don't have overnight guests at present as the VIP guest bed is full of coolers, hoses, electrical cables, boxes and buckets of boat spares, vacuum cleaners and lots of other boat stuff. He has determined that the worm gear was stripped, and phoned the rigger in Saint Thomas, discussing parts needed, and we have decided that as their supplier (in Connecticut) had a replacement gearbox available, we would have it shipped via FedX. It seems that the last time the windlass was repaired, by FKG in St. Martin last April, one part was put in out of sequence and another was put in upside down. The new windlass may arrive today, so we have booked to go in to Crown Bay Marina on Monday, and hope that the rigging company's technician can work with Charlie on Monday to get the engine off the old windlass and installed. Don't know how long it will take, so who knows where we will be for Christmas - maybe still in the marina as we fear that all the good moorings may be taken by the time the reparis are complete. NOT PART OF THE PLAN.
People we met in Grenada, Jim and Karen of Regenero are moored next to us and had us over for drinks a couple of evening ago, and they are coming over to Lady for a meal tonight. They replaced hatches on their boat yesterday - the first day without rain. But the squalls and rain have returned today. The wet season has lasted a lot longer than it usually does. The Christmas winds came early. Oh well, we could be back on land and living in the cold. Glad we are here.
(The computer technician in Cruz Bay finally called back yesterday. The hard drive has failed on my lap top. Now I have to get a really good Internet connection so I can get all my data from Norton's on-line backup. We also have to go back to Cruz Bay to pick it up. Maybe we'll do that after Joyce and Jep get here on Boxing Day.)