Aboard Lady

Lady and crew start other adventures

 

We did as much research as we could to prepare Lady for her role as cargo.  Seven Seas Yacht Transport sent some emails, and Little Star set up a WhatsApp group which worked well for communications.  SSYT air freighted 5 tons of equipment from Florida to Singapore, which got delayed for days in Qatar (freight company blamed the virus). Finally, the gear arrived and yachts were scheduled at two-hour intervals for loading on March 13th.  Lady's slot was for 1330. We paid the marina and departed in plenty of time for the four-hour passage to the commercial dock where Kamnik was tied up.  Loading Lady and Sky Blue Eyes was delayed more as SSYT's gear had not been "certified" as safe by Singapore standards, and other equipment had to be found. Loading Arkouda took much longer than expected. 

 

 

We spent the hot night with empty tanks tied up alongside Kamnik. We found a can of beans, a can of tuna and a bottle of Tia Maria as well as the last of the water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We loaded March 14th, returned to Raffles Marina hotel to pick up our luggage and made flight reservations to London, departing March 15.

 

We did not visit the Isle of Wight, and flew on to Baltimore March 16th. We didn't want to risk infecting Jenny’s 96-year-old Mum or being locked out of the U.S.

 

 

MV Kamnik, for reasons unknown to us, discharged Lady and the three other yachts in Taiwan on March 20th. Although the loadmaster in Singapore admitted that leaving the lowest thru-hull open for rain drainage was smart, there was no loadmaster in Taiwan to be informed of the open thru-hull.  Lady was flooded by the time we got hold of SSYT's Operations Manager.  SSYT alleged it was just cosmetic damage and cleaned her up. Arkouda lost her mast during this trans-shipment.

 

 

 

 

The four yachts (and the separated mast) were loaded aboard Sider Michelle on April 8th.  Sider Michelle stopped in Ensenada Mexico April 29th to unload the other yachts, and take on additional vessels. She also stopped in La Paz to take on additional yachts. 

 

Sider Michelle and Lady went through the Panama Canal on May 12th. 

 

 

 

We drove a rented Tahoe from Tulsa May 13th, and met Sider Michelle and Lady Sunday May 17th at Port Everglades.  We were aboard one of the two towing vessels we had engaged to get her from the ship to a boat yard. We had been advised by SSYT that the batteries were dead.  We hauled out at Royale Palm Yacht Marina on May 18th.  Our surveyor was there May 19^th.  It was readily apparent that Lady was a Constructive Total Loss and that a new interior would need to be built, therefore we spent the week unloading Lady of all our stuff.  It was sad to see the damage.  Looked like about 32" water had been above the floorboards in the forward cabin, a foot of water...not quite reaching the stove in the galley. We had to rent a Ford F150 truck as well to get the dinghy and motor and all the other stuff off her.  Generator was flooded...all below floor pumps and wiring flooded...batteries exploded...engine oil had been changed in Taiwan, so we believe that the engine also got wet...all wood doors, drawers and lockers swollen, some still wouldn't open. Our personal yacht insurance sent a surveyor also that week, and although the London Underwriters (SSYT's insurance) had been informed of the potential loss, they did not send a surveyor at that time.  Hugh and Paula of C470 Barra were a huge help while we were in Florida. Drove two vehicles back to Tulsa, May 22-23.  Our surveyor’s report declared her a Constructive Total Loss – it would cost more to repair her than she’s worth.

 

 

When we engaged the surveyor, we asked him for a Maritime Attorney recommendation and have been working with him in our negotiations with the London Underwriters.  It's been an interesting process.  London Underwriters (Generali and W.I.S.E) admitted liability three or four times but their U.S. insurance adjusters and surveyor were totally incompetent.  After admitting that Lady was indeed CTL, again, at the end of August, and not paying the storage bills as they were submitted, we were surprised that the underwriters wanted us to be responsible for disposing of her.  On November 17^th we sold her to a nice young man who intends to restore her.  He had copies of all the surveys. His payment for the yacht did not cover the yard’s storage bill.

Generali paid us their half of the settlement on November 24^th.  No word from W.I.S.E. Our attorney continues to work on them. Apparently, Generali and W.I.S.E each had 50% of the risk, but were severally liable, not jointly.

We understand that the new owner does not plan to change Lady’s name.  He is moving her to a yard in Fort Pierce, FL while he works on her, and we wish him all the best.

While staying in a rented house in Tulsa, from late March, with not much going on, we looked at property on the Internet, and found a house a half block from our grandchildren and closed on purchase of "The Landing" June 1.  Built shelves in the garage for all of Lady's stuff, replaced 40-year-old water heaters, ripped out the wall-to-wall white carpet, replacing with wood floors, purchased a fridge and a king-size bed.  Moved the rest of our (been in storage for seven years) possessions on June 30th, and started living there mid-July.

So, Charlie has got his golf score down and Jenny is putting in a beautiful garden. For the present, we are dirt-dwellers.  We are experiencing Fall/Autumn and Winter for the first time in thirteen years and miss our outdoor lifestyle. We will have room for visitors, once we are all vaccinated.

We have agreed that we will be ready to start discussing the next boat when we have received the final insurance payment.  We hope that our cruising careers are not over.  This is the first time we have been  boat-less in 50 years. 

 

 

Next stop

Lady may leave Singapore next week-end.Seven Seas lastest word is that MV Kamnik will be picking up Lady and four other yachts, including friends Arkouda and Sky Blue Eyes in Singapore sometime between March 7 and 9. I checked Marine Traffic just now, and Kamnik's still at anchor in the Bay of Bengal, her historic top speed is 12kts so we are doubting that loading Lady will happen by March 9th. I booked air (premium economy using my AA miles-crossing the pond must be one of the world's most lucrative routes for all airlines - cost $850 for taxes and other fees) from LHR to BWI for March 16, as we want to stop at the Isle of Wight and see my Mum (96 and doing OK living in her own cottage) on our way to Baltimore, where IV and family are spending Spring Break (they arrive Mar 18) with Mike and Ashley. Hope to arrive Tulsa Mar 23. Lady is scheduled to arrive Port Everglades by April 25th, but at the rate we're going we think it may be well into May before we have to have a new home port for her.

We got word about the nomination of the ship last Friday, February 28th, and hired crew (teen-age boys from another marina yacht) for a couple of hours to help with removing diesel Jerry cans (stowed in aft shower), unfurling, lowering, folding genoa (stowed on port bench, main cabin), lowering and cleaning Bimbo, hoisting the outboard to stern pulpit, moving her around to the bow and hoisting her and turning her upside down and strapping to foredeck. Most of the food staples have been given away. The jib sheets and falls have been washed and stowed. Luggage is out and being packed with cold-weather clothes and gifts for family. We will check the luggage into the hotel here the day before we depart, as we expect to be aboard for the hoist and cradling, departing by ship's tender with just backpacks. We will book air flights from SIN to LHR as soon as we get back to the hotel and depart the next day.
With the COVID-19 concern, we have not been going out much. A weekly outing for a walk and shopping- closest grocery supermarket is six SMRT stops away. We can get heavy stuff (beer, wine) delivered. We enjoy a swim every day in the wonderful pool here and have made friends with a number of other folks in the marina. When we run out of food and drink, there's a bar and restaurant ashore at the marina hotel. Plastic cards still work. Life is good while we wait.

More from SIngapore

Although we are getting caught up on boat chores, we try to go to town about three times a week so we can see more of this near-the-equator SE Asian country.

We spent a day at the Botanic Garden, where we particularly enjoyed the National Orchid Garden and the rain forest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We could easily spend another full day there...there was so many wonderful plants, trees, flowers and even a few animals, particularly birds to see.

Another day we did a couple of "hop on hop off" bus tours, but we stayed on the whole route, taking pictures and decided where we want to go back another day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The "important" shopping area of Singapore is Orchard Street.  We wandered around it one day admiring items somebody besides us might like to own.  Charlie was not able to find a shirt in his size.  The seasonal decorations were outstanding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of our cruising friends had visited Singapore from Malaysia, and they all told us to go to the Gardens By The Bay.

A lot of Singapore has been built on land reclaimed from the sea (today they are still rebuilding with all the ash and rubble from the half-dozen trash-to-energy plants).  These gardens and biomes are magnificent.  Like being inside a huge green-house. One was specifically done for the Christmas season, another is all about mountain vegetation, a third was flowers and again specially decorated for the season, with many different kids of poinsettias.  The biomes are air-conditioned so they are beautifully COOL places to spend time.  We'll be back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another outing took us to the Asian Civilizations Museum, where we enjoyed looking at items recovered from an ancient (9th century!) wreck, and also the collection of ink and calligraphy that had been given to the museum by Dr Tan Tsze Chor.  Another place to go back to!

 

 

 

 

 

Singapore

Raffles Marina, SIngapore

November 27th, 2019

We arrived at Raffles Marina, on the far western shore of Singapore on Monday November 17th.  The Singapore Police stopped us as we were about to reach the CIQP dock (Customs, Immigration, Quarantine), but after assuring them that we had an agent and an appointment to clear in, they untied their launch and let us tie up at the dock.  The marina was ready for us and formalities did not take long, and soon we were in our berth.  The marina's electrician made necessary adjustments to our power supply, and the step-down transformer we had purchased in Puteri, and soon the air-conditioning was blowing cool air into the cabin.

 

We have had dinner a number of evenings at the pub and the restaurant at the marina, and the menu is a mix of Asian, Indian and western.

 

 

 

After a day of working on Lady, we were ready for an outing to somewhere.  Getting local cash, SIM cards, Internet service and a few groceries were on the list.  Dutch cruisers Wietze and Janneke on Anna Caroline had been at Raffles the week before and seen Lady's name on the list of expected yachts and left us their MRT cards with enough deposit on them to get us started on using Singapore's amazing transit system.  

 

The marina has lovely gardens and plantings around, which we admired on our way to the station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We are certainly in an up-to-date country.  Good roads and public trans-portation.  The station had super-clean rest-rooms, escalators that worked.  Such a treat.  We rode the MRT about six stations to the Boon Lay shopping mall.  We apparently traveled at a very off-peak time (10:00am!!!). 

 

We admired the scenery as we sped along.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After six months of cruising, we have quite a bit of deferred maintenance and cleaning to do on Lady.  We have decided that as we are in no rush to see all of Singapore (Lady will be here until February), we will spend alternate days working on the boat and exploring this country.  

 

 

 

Another day we went to the National Museum of Singapore and learnt a lot of the history of the country.  Our tour guide was an ex-pat from New Orleans!  In four hours we did not see all of it, so another visit may be in our future.  This tree was one that has been preserved...the city has grown so much that many trees have been cut down for buildings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have been to China-town twice.

 

 

 

 

Just moseying around we found a tailor who makes beautiful clothes  We were not in the market for suits, or dress clothes, but a new silk robe was certainly something Charlie could use...and Christmas is coming, so we spent some money with Jimmy and Monica at Abbas.

 

 

 

Such interesting historical shrines, and local markets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found a Michelin starred market restaurant and had a delicious lunch at Hawker Chans for less than $20US.

 

 

 

 

More boat maintenance and exploration to come!

Puteri, Malaysia

November 17th, 2019

One Fifteen Marina, Puteri Harbour, Malaysia

After a couple of nights at Nongsa Point Marina, Indonesia (great place to finish up Indonesia...swimming pool, restaurant, English-speaking people) we crossed the Singapore Strait (got stopped by Singapore Police after straying a kilometer into Singapore), went up the river and took a slip at the One⁰15 Marina in Puteri. After investing in a step-down transformer (local current is 240 volts), it was a delight to have air-conditioning on the boat. We felt sorry for our Scottish, English, Norwegian and Swedish friends who never had air conditioning installed aboard their vessels.  Daytime temperature are in the nineties.  It rains every other day. Night time will cool down to low eighties.

Puteri is a new development near Johur Bahru. Lots of mostly un-occupied high-rise buildings.  Restaurants and "shopping" around the marina.  Alcoholic beverages available at the restaurants. (even though Malaysia is an Islamic state). The marina runs a shuttle to a good laundromat (a dozen washing machines, a dozen dryers, everything works) three times a week, and another shuttle to one of the Aeon Malls.  There are decent grocery stores in the neighborhood, as well as the large grocery stores at the mall.

 

 

Dinner with friends our last night in Indonesia. Swedes, Scots, Aussie marina manager.  Good seafood.  Only Bintang beer offered to drink, but they did not mind us bringing in our own wine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Singapore seems to be quite smoggy...just like western Indonesia.  Malaysia also has dirty air and water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shopping mall sights!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Around the marina

 

 

 

 

 

 

A pet shop was opposite the "self laundry". They had big birds and little ones, bunnies, kittens, large and small lizards or geckos, guinea pigs, a tortoise and another animal that looked like a chipmunk with a fluffy tail.  Also dried and live feed (worms and crickets).

 

 

 

I couldn't believe that Kickapoo Joy Juice is offered for sale in local markets!

This is not the stuff that used to be in the Lil Abner Comics, but more like Mountain Dew.

According to Wikipedia, Kickapoo Indians are not only in Oklahoma, but also Kansas, Texas and Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So many good times over the years with Craig and Karene (IL SOGNO).  They and many of our other WS2I rally friends are now on their way north to Langkawi, Malaysia and Phuket, Thailand.  Good to have had the opportunity to say farewell to everyone here in Puteri.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A different kind of rally was here...these are mostly Porsches, but there was also a Maserati and a Lamborghini in this car rally.  According to a security guard, the cars were all visiting from Singapore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Couples getting married seem to like having a marina back-drop for pictures.

(Can't believe they wear so much in this heat!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our marina security guard, and many other security people seen at the mall were from Nepal.  They do not seem to speak much English.

 

Tanjung Putin National Park

We arrived in Kumai, Borneo on October 10th, after an overnight passage from the island of Bawean.  Many other rally boats had decided to also visit this area and were already there.  I had made arrangements for a three day two night tour to the Tanjung Putin National Park with OrangutangApplause.com after reading on-line reviews.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The kelotok Borneo Alase we had chartered for our eco-tour started by picking up Colin and Izzi from Endorphin B,followed by Paul and Andi from Talulah Ruby III before getting to Lady. 

We had previously met Dessy (business manager) and Arif (biologist guide)  when they stopped by the day before to answer questions.  We were introduced to Captain Sunny, cook Tarmi and deckhand Jay.  The tour also included a guard for the three yachts left at anchor.

We were no sooner underway when breakfast, the first of many amazing meals was served.

As we slowly motored up the river, Arif discussed the things we were seeing.  We learnt how orangutans like to build a new nest each night high up in a tree, we saw our first proboscis monkeys, we saw other kelotoks and locals enjoying a Sunday off.

The river has National Park on one side, but privately owned tribal land on the other.

 

It was wonderfully relaxing.  All we had to do was enjoy each other's company and take pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After lunch we arrived at our first stop. A hike through the jungle brought us to a feeding station for orangutans.  Rangers place bananas, sugar cane, other fruit and sometimes milk at a certain time each day on a platform, and the orangutans come down one by one from the trees.  The alpha male eats first, then he may let his favorite female and her baby eat next.  The others all have to wait their turn.  It was amazing to watch them as they swung through the trees.  I had mis-placed my camera (thought it was lost), so had to rely on a phone to take pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We anchored for the night near a proboscis monkey family.  After a wonderful dinner on the roof-top of the Borneo Alase, (we brought out own adult beverages for the trip) we descended to find the main deck occupied by three double mattresses made up for us, each with a mosquito net.  We fell asleep listening to the sounds of the jungle, mostly cicadas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next day we traveled deeper into the jungle.  We stopped and hiked to another feeding station in the morning, where there were quite a few other tourists (30-40 or so showed up for the 0900-1100 feeding).  More of these wonderful red people of the forest showed up.

Arif also pointed out interesting botanical items.  Here's a pitcher plant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We traveled further.  Another delicious lunch.  Past a local fishing camp.  We disembarked at the dock for Camp Leakey, the main research station of the park. We hiked along boardwalks and trails to get to the feeding area.  More wonderful animals came by.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We watched them for an hour or more...Charlie, Izzi and Colin left before the rest of us and were surprised when they got to the dock to see an orangutan climbing up onto the dock.  We had been instructed to stay five meters away from the animals, but there was no way to get that far.  Izzi hid behind Charlie while Colin took pictures of "Percy" as he moved past them.  How exciting for all of them!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile, Arif was escorting Andi, Paul and I back to the dock.  At one point, the trail was blocked by a mother and baby orangutan.  "Difficult to stay further away than five meters", I murmured as Arif directed me to climb the bank.  The beautiful animals passed us unconcerned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That was quite exciting!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we approach the dock..there's another one!  Blocking our way!

Turns out that this was "Percy" and Colin got some good pictures as he and I gave each other as much space as we could as we passed.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The kelotok came over to the dock to pick us all up...there were cheeky macaque monkeys climbing around there.

 

 

 

 

 

Our ship's gear box had failed, but just like at sea, all the tour boats' crews help each other out, and we were given a tow to our next stop.  We docked and some of us went for a night hike, seeing tarantulas, scorpions and other spiders.  The boat was repaired, and we anchored overnight near where a  proboscis monkey family was also enjoying the night..

When awake next morning, another proboscis male had approached the family and witnessing the troop's alpha male fight and chase off the intruder was more excitement!

The dry season ended, and it was a foggy wet morning.  Arif and crew modified the plan so that we would not be going ashore in a thunderstorm, and we went back down river and eventually stopped at a place where we could plant trees.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw different birds  - the greater coucal, the hornbill and a number of stork-billed kingfishers, a crocodile, a couple of otters.  we also saw another monkey - the Sundiac silver langur.

We haven't done many "crewed charters", but if any friends are looking for an interesting eco-tour.  We highly recommend Afir, Dessy and all the crew from Orangoutan Applause.  What a GREAT trip!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flores, Komodo, Sumbawa, Lombok, Bali

When friends start emailing, concerned that we haven't posted anything recently, I guess it's time to write.  Truth is that Indonesia is quite warm (we are currently at about 5 degrees south latitude), and sitting below, even with hatches open and fans going does not appeal for long periods, so I'm just going to post pictures without too much commentary.

 

We met this young woman, she's about 14 who came by and invited us ashore to her house to meet her family.  Her grandmother, who walks with a cane, is my age.  She arrived at Lady in a dug-out canoe, paddled by her boy cousin. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent quite a bit of time in the Labuan Bajo area - enjoyed some western food, and of course we visited the dragons.

The macaque monkeys, deer and buffalo are preferred dragon food.

 

 

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While on a guided hike, we saw more buffalo and deer and a juvenile dragon crossed our path.

 

The best part of the Komodo National Park was the snorkeling.  We found a great place near Makasar Island and ended up spending five nights there.

In Sumbawa we went to the water-buffalo National Championship. Cruisers were invited to participate, and six members of the fleet, three of them women did. We also toured a couple of charming villages.  Everyone we met wanted a "selfie, selfie".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Medana Day in Lombok was a place to enjoy a "marina" mooring ball, eat good (western) food and I even learnt how to make a basket the traditional way.

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After being in so many Moslem areas, Bali was a change as the people there are mostly Hindu.  There were little shrines at every business and house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also, lots of interesting architecture and carvings around the town of Lovina.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We made friend with Ian and Alan, who invited us to see Ian's villa.  We walked past women harvesting rice as we walked to his charming place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another day Karene (IL SOGNO) and I were able to tour the area, seeing a coffee plantation, monkeys, botanic garden and it rained on us.  It was so much cooler up in the mountains.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Sail 2 Indonesia Rally had a party on the opening night of the Lovina festival.  Such a colorful event, interesting food, dancing, music and local princes and princesses welcomed us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ships of Indonesia

There are a lot of different kinds of boats.

Dug-out canoes with outriggers in rural Flores:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Phinisis for divers and other live-aboard tours at Labuan Bajo, Flores.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Local fishermen in the LB Flores area:

Day-tour boats in the Komodo National Park:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Spider" boats - local fishing boats at an island village in the Komodo area:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We'll be adding to this post later...so check back it you are interested.

Hoga and Flores

Pulau Hoga

We departed Banda August 3rd, and had sailed west across the Banda Sea.  The first day was uncomfortable, and talking to friends Elaine and Roy (Paw Paw) later, things weren't much better on a catamaran.  After a couple of nights at sea, we came in to Hoga Island, part of the Wakatobi National Park, where we dropped anchor and spent a lovely five days with some amazing (the best ever) snorkeling. The reef off the islands drops down to very deep water, and we were able to tie the dinghy to a mooring buoy placed by local divers and enjoy all the sights of beautiful local species of corals and fish we'd never met before.  Local traders came by and sold us fruits and veggies, and a few more yachts came in to the anchorage before we left.  Parties were held on Lady, Arkouda, Paw Paw  and ashore at a local "resort". The was an NGO group staying at the "resort" doing marine research and it was reported that they had discovered a number of new species and also re-discovered a couple of species previously thought to be extinct.  

 

Flores

A group of five yachts departed Banda, headed south to Flores, initially intended to be just an overnight passage.  We passed numerous Fish Attraction Devices "FADs" (we think) that looked like a little boat with a flag.  We radioed the positions to each other, and then on to the rest of the rally behind us.  Paw Paw  arrived at our destination of a small harbor at Tanjung (cape) Gedong at far north-eastern Flores Island.  Paw Paw  was a few hours ahead of us and reported early in the day that the small harbor had a very large visiting local cruise ship that was occupying most of the space, they had tried to anchor, but only rock was available for their hook.  Plans and courses were changed, with Wodong being the next intended port of call.  Arriving there mid after-noon, Paw Paw found a sandy spot near the dive resort to anchor, but the wind had changed and was now blowing quite hard out of the north, and it was now a lee shore, and the shore went from shallow to deep very quickly, so the crew of Lady was not comfortable there, so we let the fleet know that we were leaving and intending to spend another night at sea on our way to a better anchorage since there was no other choice we could reach while we still had good light. (at sea is almost always the safest option, contrary to what landlubers might think)!  Arkouda and Ultimo  soon felt the same way, and before too long Paw Paw had decided that instead of spending the night on anchor watch, they would come to sea as well.  Cattiva is a slower yacht, and they had made it in to Tanjung Gedong after the cruise ship had left.

Next morning Ultimo led the way into the Damo anchorage.  It was like a totally protected pond, and we all enjoyed it.  The anchorage is part of the 17 Islands Marine Park, which has 24 islands.  Another two yachts joined us later, Georgia and Fairwinds, who we knew from the Caribbean.  There would have been plenty of room for a dozen more yachts.  

 

There was some sort of local fishing camp, and we saw a few local boats.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We dinghied out through the cut one day, hoping to find some good snorkeling, but the wind was too strong, so we went back to the inlet and found a place to do some swimming, but the reefs had been dynamited some years ago, and they were recovering.

The Spice Islands of Banda

Banda Neira, Indonesia

July 28th, 2019 to August 3rd 2019

Having made it into the anchorage at Banda before sunset, thanks to assistance from Elaine and Roy on catamaran Paw Paw, we were up quite early as Hans, a local gentleman who spoke a little English came by the boat offering bananas for sale.  Those lovely little mini-bananas.  We purchase them, and then he offered to get fuel for us.  Charlie gave him the dinghy's extra fuel tank, and half and hour later he was back with the petrol.  We watched some local boys and men paddling their canoe that we later learned was called a cora cora, and each village take great pride in their team. 

 

 

 

A dinghy ride ashore took us to the main settlement.  There we met a number of locals associated with "tourism".  Ayu, a young woman seemed to be in charge of arranging tours and events the area was arranging for the "yachters".   We booked to take the long boat tour to Banda Besir, and got details of the events planned to the welcome ceremony to relay to other boats.  She demanded a printed copy (doesn't everyone have a copier on their boat) of our official crew list before she would give us a printed agenda. 

We met Bakri, who spoke some English who took us on a tour of the settlement.

 

 

 

 

 

We learnt that these islands were long-time traders with Arabs and Chinese before Europeans arrived.  Once "discovered" Portugal, Holland and England all fought over the islands, desiring the spices that were worth more than gold.  The Dutch eventually got control, wanted a monopoly on the nutmeg, cloves and other spices, and eventually decapitated many village elders and killed most of the Bandanese.  A few escaped to other islands.  Seventeenth century genocide. The Dutch maintained control of Indonesia until 1945 when Indonesia became independent.  One of the historic land trades was the (British controlled) Island of Rhun for the (Dutch controlled) island of New Amsterdam, since renamed Manhattan, perhaps history's worst trade!

There are many slowly decaying historic Dutch buildings, and if you happen to need a cannon, please take one!

We saw one of the old forts, and visited the ATM, where we learned that only two of our cards would work, and the maximum withdrawal was 1,000,000 Rupiahs - that's just over $70US.

 

 

 

The Spice tour the next day departed at 0830.  We had requested a later tour, but that was not an option. There were quite a few boats' crews who had signed up for it, so it became two tours and we were disappointed that because we had signed up early we had to get in the boats and go on the tour in the precise order we had signed up and could not go with friends who had signed up later.  The arrangements seem to be very controlled and at times the tourism officials treated us like kindergartners - was it because we don't speak their language?

We gingerly got aboard the long boat with about 16 other sailors and headed across the harbor to Banda Besir.  Very little here would pass health and safety rules of western countries.  Not a life-jacket to be seen on the long boat.  Arriving at the first village on Banda Besir, we saw more cora coras, then walk through the village admiring gardens and homes.  Cloves and nutmeg were drying in the sun in front of many of the well-tended homes.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

After climbing up about two-hundred steps, we got to the jungle where the locals own separate tracts that they harvest.  Cloves are really small buds on the trees, nutmeg are harvested by someone climbing up a tree and using a special tool to catch a nutmeg, the casing of which is then cut to reveal the mace-enclosed spice.  Almonds, vanilla and lemongrass were also grown on the plot we visited.

We also visited an old fort and saw the wells for fresh water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday July 30th was rainy.  We had all been instructed to be shore by 0800 for the welcome ceremony, which involved music, dancing and speeches we could not understand.  Each nationality was represented, Jenny was the US delegate and had to wave when introduced and each received a beautiful scarf from a different local official. These were followed by the coro cora races.  Again, those who were paddling were assigned a boat (couldn't go with our friends).  Three different villages provided boats, and 15 of the 30 crew members on each vessel gave up their spots for the "yachters". Jenny went on the Tana Mata boat which was blue.  We soon got into a rhythm and when it was over, we think the blue boat won, but the judges decided that it was a draw and the fancy trophies were awarded to the villages who sent participating crews and boats.  Good fun despite being so wet.

 

We declined the meal that was provided - we had eaten at the hotel the evening before and were disappointed with the food - inexpensive with a lot of rice - the lunch looked like it had been prepared a while before it was served and the flies were enjoying it.  We found a coffee shop in town (nutmeg coffee), waved at the students returning home from the ceremony, explored the market area and got more cash.

We enjoyed the remainder of our time in Banda.  It was sunny enough one afternoon to go snorkelling with Rene and Paulien from The Bounty.  We took the dinghies over to where the remains of the 1988 lava flow from the volcano enter the sea and it was beautiful under water.  Corals shaped like cabbages, others a field of green.  Soft corals waving gently in the water and fish we hadn't seen before.  Jenny saw one that she thinks our grand-daughter would like...although it was mostly grey, it had a single little bump on its head like a unicorn.

 

 

Our last night ashore we went to Cilu Bintang, whose owner Abba had offered the cruisers who were still in port a beautiful buffet dinner.  It was the very best meal we have had so far in Indonesia.  Fun to be with new friends. 

The rally fleet is starting to disperse.  Some have gone to Ambon, an island with an airport to the north, others are following the rally itinerary and moving to Tifu, in the South Buru Regency.  We have decided to skip a few of the rally destinations, and are going to spend some time in the Wangiwangi National Park.  It will take us a couple of nights sail to get there.