Aboard Lady

Marsh Harbour, Guana Cay, Green Turtle Cay

Abaco Islands

Tuesday June 7th to Wednesday June 15th, 2011

We enjoyed snorkeling on Sandy Cay so much, we decided to stay at Lynyard Cay a second night, and went snorkeling there again on Tuesday.  

We also got some boat projects done.  The anchor chain tend to get wound up and kinked after a lot of use.  I thought that the way to un-ravel it would be to go out to deep water, let out all 300 feet of chain and let the anchor untwist on its own.  Charlie informed me that although that seemed logical, he doubted that the windlass would be able to handle the weight of all that chain and the 66lbs of anchor.  His solution was for us to motor slowly backwards in about 20 feet of water, laying out the chain on the bottom as we went, back down on it and then to winch it back in.  It seems to have worked to far.  

He also changed the fuel filters and fixed the MOB (man overboard) light and whistle that are attached to the horseshoe buoy that we hope we never have to use.

He lost a bridge on his teeth chewing gum.  He wanted to wait until he got back to Tulsa to get it fixed, but the Medical Officer decided that she did not want to be responsible for working on aching teeth at sea, and found a dentist in Marsh Harbour listed in the cruising guide.  We were out of cell phone range, but Wednesday we managed to reach the dentist by phone as we motored back towards Marsh Harbour, and made an appointment for that afternoon.  We anchored in the harbour without going aground, and found the dentist who was able to cement the bridge back.  We also were able to purchase additional engine oil at the Tru-Value/Napa hardware store.  

Dinner out that night at the Jib Room was fun.  We met another cuiser, enjoyed watching a boat-load of boy-scouts and seeing the locals enjoying barbecued ribs.  A rake and scrape band started up, and the kids enjoyed the limbo competition.

Thursday we moved over to Guana Cay, where we picked up a mooring, and stayed there on Friday when the low pressure area finally arrived.  This weather event had been threatening the Caribbean for a week of so, hanging around Jamaica, The Cayman Islands and Cuba; it had sent friends that we hope to meet in the Abacos back to Florida before we arrived.  It rained and rained, all day.  One station on the Abaco Cruisers' Net reported Saturday that they had received 4 1/2 inches of very welcome rain.  We did more boat projects  - freezer defrost, change bulb in instrument panel, fix struts for solar panel - as we watched the rain.  We have full side-curtains that keep a lot of the weather out of the cockpit, so we weren't cooped up down below, like some of the other boats around us.

Our solar panels don't charge the batteries during that kind of weather, so Saturday after the sun was shining again, we motored through Loggerhead Cut and Whale Cay Cut, anchored off Crossing Bay for a walk on the lovely beach by Treasure Island.  The wind was from the west, a rare direction in the Abacos.  All of the favoured anchorages are to the west of the eastern-most islands, but those were rather exposed with this wind direction.  The forecast was for more wind from west, north and south in the coming days, so we chose to go in to White Sound in Green Turtle Cay where it was calm and sheltered.

We had a drink at the bar at Bluff House, and found out that the resort had recently changed hands, and they they had no fuel at present.  The Green Turtle Club marina did have fuel, so we motored over there on Sunday, and filled up with diesel and water, ready for the trip back to USA.  Monday was the Whit Monday holiday here, so most of the businesses in the lovely town of New Plymouth were closed when we dinghied in there for a walk, but we were able to purchase a few groceries and ice cream and get lunch after our walk.

Here's a picture of a tree that was not doing very well when we were here two years ago.

And a picture of that same tree now!

This week the bank is only open one day.  There is no ATM, so visitors better bring all the cash they need with them.

We walked through town to Gillam Bay and had a nice walk along the beach.  I found some shells on the lovely sand-banks.

It was flat calm so after parking the provisions we had purchased back on Lady, we took the dinghy around the northern end of GTC and anchored on the Atlantic, reef-side of the island for snorkeling.  

Tuesday (Flag Day!) we did boat projects in the morning, and took dinghy around to snorkel off Pelican Island.  We found a pretty reef there which at one point had two moorings on it, but only the lines remain...the floats seem to have been gone for quite a while.

We have been checking weather on the Internet (Passage Weather is a favorite) and on our Sirius weather, and it looks like we have favourable winds forecast for tomorrow for a few days that will enable us to depart the Bahamas and sail to the United States.  We have off-shore meals prepared and we'll go to town today to clear out of the Bahamas.

We expect to depart Green Turtle early tomorrow (Thursday) morning, so that we can get out of White Sound at high tide, exit the Sea of Abaco at Whale Cay, and head north for Beaufort, North Carolina.  We should arrive there Saturday or Sunday.

 

 

Conception Island to Marsh Harbour

The Bahamas

Thursday June 2nd, 2011 to Friday June 3rd, 2011

Completion of voyage from Providenciales, Turks and Caicos

We awoke early after a great night's sleep, and at 0635 Charlie was pulling up the anchor and we motored out of the bay, past the Southampton Reef.  By shorty after 0700, sails were pulling and motor was off.  A rain squall threatened us, so first we reefed the main, then as we saw gusts up to 28 the main was furled some more.  It rained heavily for a while, but by 0800 the rain was ending, and we were back to sailing under full sail.  Soon the sun was shining brightly.

We saw a single dolphin that morning, but it didn't stay around long enough to get its picture taken.

Our noon position was 24 30.330N 075 12.621W, east of Cat Island with a COG of 339 and SOG 7.2 knots.

It was an ideal passage-making day.  At times our speed was over 8 knots, and we had sunshine all afternoon.

Hajin Nagoya passed us at 1445, She was headed for the Panama Canal.

Half an hour later, Tropic Sun appeared on the AIS, destination St. Thomas, and a couple of hours later he headed up 10 to give Garnet Ace a wide berth as she headed for Cartagena.

We reefed again; our speed remained over 8 knots, so before dark we reefed more, and as the sun set at about 1945 our speed was still 7.5.

Again , we took turns napping during the night, the person on watch alone wearing their life-jacket and tether hooked to the boat.

Lady slowed as the wind lightened up around 2245 and Charlie shook our the reefs unaided, leaving me asleep.

It was another moonless night, but there were lots of stars, an occasional shooting star, and the occasional lights of air traffic.

Next morning, we headed in to the North Bar Channel way-point.  The tide was rising, so with wind and current in the same direction, it seemed safe enough to enter through that channel and we still had waypoints in our chart plotter from entering this channel 2 years ago. We had come 182 natuical miles in 25 hours all under sail except when leaving the anchorage. Not bad! We motored around a couple of sand-banks, and dropped anchor off uninhabited Tilloo Cay, where we had another nap, swim and brunch, before heading to Marsh Harbour.

It was Labour Day, a national holiday in the Bahamas, so the usual dock hand at Harbour View Marina was off.  The person who assisted us was confused about the tidal situation, and at 1400 we were stuck in the mud, trying to get into our slip.  We eventually got in, with the help of other cruisers on the dock, long lines, using the windlass to winch us into the slip together with full power on the engine. 

By 1730 Customs and Immigration officials had come by to separate us from $300 and admitted us to The Bahamas.  The officials were imoressed that we had sailoed from Turks and Caicos to Abaco in three days.  The boat was washed, as was the laundry.

A lovely dinner ashore, and an early night in bed.

 

Western Puerto Rico

May 17th to May 19th, 2011

Parguera to Boqueron (click to see map)

While we were anchored in Gilligan's Island earlier this week, we noticed a white blimp in the sky (1,000 feet?).  I had thought it was near Ensenada, but as we sailed to Parquera, it was obvious that it was a lot bigger and a lot further away than that. We think that this is part of our national defense system, and also used to monitor potential smugglers of people and drugs.  We've seen similar blimps in Key West and El Paso, TX.

Tuesday morning when we  left Parguera it had been raining all night, and more storms were forecast for the day.  I noticed that the blimp had been lowered to its ground tether, so after pulling the anchor, we motored over to see if we could get a better view.   If you zoom in on the Google map link above, you can even see it there!  You can also see its shadow and the docking station.  Here's a link to an article on  contemporary blimps.  If any readers find others, please let us know!  Charlie thinks it was grounded because of the weather. So, if you want to smuggle anything, do it in a thunderstorm when the blimp's "asleep".

Anyway, after delaying our departure waiting for another storm to pass, we took off.  The weather came in again, and we had a very rainy ride.  Great sailing, but we needed the foul-weather gear as well.  We anchored in Boqueron harbor about 1400 and watched more rain fall all afternoon.

Wednesday dawned bright and clear so we headed ashore.  One of our guide books refers to Boqeron as the Key West of the Caribbean.  I don't think so.  This "fixer-upper"  looks to me more like a "knocker-downer".  

Looks like the local catholic church is predicting the end of the world next Saturday.

Boqueron has a lovely bay and a very nice beach.

The village is supposedly a popular spot for Puerto Ricans to party.  On Wednesday morning, however, most everything was closed.  We saw lots of empty roadside stands, and most of the dining establishments were cerrado.  Hardly anybody walking around.  

We were finally able to get some lunch at Mr. Mofongos.  Three men were working on make a new concrete floor for the Bar/Grill across the street, and a small boy was busy with his truck in their sand-pile.

All the street poles in Boqeron are painted with this attractive sail logo.

We ended up at El Shamar, adjacent to the dinghy dock, where we met another cruiser.  This latest part of our cruising we have met very few other cruisers.  Most of the people we met in the other islands are either on their way to Grenada and Trinidad, or already back in the USA.

We shared the dinghy dock with about three other vessels that day.  This local fishing boat's decorations caught our eye.  

On our way back to Lady, it was amusing to see that each of this abandoned pier's piling has been taken over by a tern.  

Later in the afternoon it poured with rain again, but after a couple of pretty rainbows, we had a lovely sunset.

Thursday, May 19th we'll leave Boqueron, and go about 20 miles north to anchor off Punta Ensenada.  It looks quite remote.  The next day we'll head west and north around to the north coast of the Domincan Republic.  That'll probably take another couple of days.

Cruising Southern Puerto Rico

South Coast of Puerto Rico (map of the area)

Wednesday May 4th to Monday May 16th, 2011

We flew from Tulsa to San Juan on Wednesday May 4th, and it sure felt great to be sleeping back aboard Lady.  A day of boat projects on Thursday, and Friday we rented a car and hit the local cash and carry for discount liquors and pop, West Marine for boat bits, and Econo for provisions.  Saturday we returned the car and did more boat projects so we could leave.

We departed Puerto Del Rey marina after settling the bill for over a month's dockage on Mother's Day, Sunday May 8th, but didn't go too far...just a few miles to Isla Palominos, where we had moored before we came in to the marina in March.  It was quiet at the mooring area...the marina golf-cart attendant had told us that Mother's Day was typically rather quiet...not at all like Father's Day. It was really good to be sleeping on a mooring, rather than in the marina.

Monday morning we were anxious to be on the move, and left the anchorage quite early.  A few miles south down the coast is an area called Palmas Del Mar.  Friends Lisa and Dudley Gibbs from Tulsa keep their boat there.  They were back in the USA, and although we ventured in to the complex, the narrow canals between the condominiums made us nervous, so we did not find their boat.  

We anchored for the night in Puerto Patillas, behind a reef for protection.

We sailed a few miles west the next day to Bahia Jobos, and anchored near Punto Pozuelo.  The bay appeared undeveloped, except for a generating station on the shore.  A big ship came in towed by two tugs and tied up at the large dock there, but apart from that it was very quiet.  We met a couple of young women in kayaks coming out of the mangroves who were working on a doctorate project for the University of Georgia.  It was flat calm in the morning.  The bay is known for the deep places that are located in the mangroves on the shore, and is very active when a storm is headed in PR's direction.  According to the guide-book, not a single vessel anchored in the Jobos hurricane holes was damaged during hurricane George.

We moved on the next day to Salinas.  The harbor had a couple of dozen cruising boats at anchor, and attractive homes on the waterfront.  There's a pretty good marina there, with a nice dinghy dock.  We walked around the village ashore, but things were very quiet.  Lots of pretty blossoms around.  We stopped in the marina restaurant for a coke, and on the way back to Lady we dinghied around the marina, looking at other boats.  When I saw the name Sojourner, I commented that I thought we knew that boat.  Charlie remembered that these were the people we had helped last year in Dominica, and that he was a former OU football player.  Peter appeared on deck at our hail, informing us that Julie had left for an Alaska vacation.  We met up with him for happy hour at the marina's snack shop and enjoyed hearing about their recent adventures.  Sojourner, a Tayana 52, is for sale, if anybody's looking for a great boat that has completed a circumnavigation.  We enjoyed dinner ashore at Ladi's, a new restaurant overlooking the beach.  We did not choose which crab we wanted to dine on.  Charlie thinks it's like eating spiders.

Thursday May 12th (happy birthday to Nigel), we pulled the anchor at 0930 and moved west in the hazy morning.  We spied a sea turtle on the way.  By 1300 we had the anchor down near the Ponce Club Nautique.  The harbor there had few boats at anchor, but lots of big sport-fishing-type boats in the marina.

We went ashore the next day, paid the marina $10 each for the privilege of using the dinghy dock and took a cab in to Plaza de Las Delicias in central Ponce.    There was quite a crowd of school-kids at the old Fire Station.  We were informed that the trolley tours were fully booked until the afternoon, so we wandered around on foot.   The cathedral had impressive statuary, and tourists were bringing in their children for the priest to bless.

Fountains and statues in the plaza were interesting, as was some of the architecture of the old buildings around the plaza.

We tried to get in to a couple of different museums, but the were closed...come back this afternoon we were told.

So we found ourselves in a mall area, with street vendors, and lots of shops with inexpensive goods.

Charlie wanted to buy me jeans in every color, but I persuaded him not to.  They look much better on the young Puerto Rican girls. (Notice that the jeans are on display rear to the front, very important to Puerto Ricans-Charlie). 

The rain that had held off most of the morning finally arrived, so we had a lovely lunch at Lola's, and then taxied back to the marina as the trolley tours did not operate in the rain.

Saturday we fuelled up at the Club Nautique fuel dock, then headed west, anchoring at Gilligan's Island about 1415.  

Punta Jacinto on the mainland had about twenty-five nice looking homes on the water.  Sunday we tried to explore Gilligan's Island.  We had seen the ferry going back an forth from the Copamarina resort and the village, but the area on the island where the ferry docks was off-limits to other boats.  There were lots of moorings, and a large area buoyed off for swimming.  It seems as though if you arrive by private boat you have to swim ashore.  We did eventually find a small beach...here's the captain ashore on Gilligan's island.  We tried to hike through the mangroves and bogs, but were unable to get to the windward beach, and all we got were mosquito bites, so we retreated back to Lady.

Our last stop on the southern Puerto Rico coast was at Parguera.  It's a nice looking town in a bay full of little mangrove covered reefs.  Very sheltered, clean water.  There are lots of nice cabins built in the mangroves along the shore...but nowhere for visitors to dock a dinghy that we could find!  We finally found a boat ramp, and parked is on the shore, tied up to a mangrove root for security.  We met a couple of other Danish cruisers who pointed us in the right directio for the grocery store, which had limes, but no lemons or mushrooms, and only six choices of breakfast cereal.  

After lunch ashore, we walked back through town, and this scene caught my eye:  

"If I had a boat, I'd ride it on the ocean, and if I had a pony, I'd ride him on my boat."

We then took the dingy out to one of the outer reefs where we tied on to a Department of Natural Resources bouy, and had a lovely swim.  My camera has always claimed that it is good to 10 feet under water, but I never took it under water, just in case it failed.  When we were home in Tulsa last month, Charlie got me another "Waterproof to 10 ft" camera (on sale at Radio Shack!), so that I could have a spare camera, in case the first one didn't work underwater.

My camera seems to work quite well under water.  Now I just need a flotation device for it, so that I don't lose it!

 

 

 

 

 

Veltmans cruise the Virgins

British Virgin Islands

February 9th to March 1, 2011

After departing Sint Maarten, and clearing the island of St. Martin and Anguilla, we had enough wind for a good sail to the northwest.  Charlie saw a whale roll two boat lengths off the port beam and never saw him again. He also saw a large pod of dolphins, but they swam off before we could get pictures.  After dark, we navigated past Neckar Island and between all the "Dog" rocks in the Francis Drake Channel and dropped anchor off Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda at 2100.  A long day.

Next day Charlie went ashore to clear us in the the British Virgin Islands, and soon we had the anchor up and we headed down the Francis Drake Channel under full sail, dropping anchor in Benures Bay for a lunch stop and snorkeling.  After lunch, we headed to Nanny Cay, where we took slip B5 for a couple of days to give the boat a good wash and do general maintenance.

Saturday we left the marina, and went around the western end of Tortola, headed for Cane Garden Bay.  There were lots of moorings there, but although there was room to anchor, the ground was too hard for our anchor to hold, so we gave that up, and moved on the Green Cay, off the end of Jost Van Dyke, where we got good holding and had a peaceful night.

Sunday we headed over to Monkey Point, where we picked up a mooring for a lunch stop, and snorkeled.  Then on to Trellis Bay, where we found another mooring, and hung on it for a couple of days.  Trellis Bay is adjacent to the Beef Island airport.  Tulsa friends Les and Susan Veltman, arrived late Monday night for a fortnight's vacation with us.

Tuesday we left Trellis Bay, and had a grand sail to Virgin Gorda's North Sound, where we took a mooring off Saba Rock.  Les and Susan admitted that Lady sailed more than their previous sailing vacations. After snorkeling in Eustatia Sound, we had a great dinner ashore that evening to celebrate Les and Susan's two month anniversary.

We explored ashore the next day, walking around the Saba Rock resort, the Bitter End Yacht Club area, had lunch at the Fat Virgin Cafe and stopped to look at the Biras Creek  Resort.

We spent the night at anchor off theSandbox Bar and Grill by Prickly Pear Island.

Thursday we pulled in to Leverick Bay Marina for water and then set off for Anegada, arriving there at 1230.  We had heard that Neptune's Treasure had been hit hard by hurricane Earl, but were pleased that all the restaurants had recovered and had great new dinghy docks.  Another great meal!

Friday we dinghied to the Anegada Reef Hotel, and took their open-air wagon to Cow Wreck Bay for the day.  Susan and I had a good walk along the beach.  Charlie and I did some snorkeling, but the water was quite cloudy from the waves and surge.

Saturday (February 19th) we headed back to the main body of the BVI's stopping at Monkey Point for lunch and a snorkel, where Jenny spotted a nurse shark.  After lunch we moved on to Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke.  We made dinner reservations at Foxy's Bar and Restaurant, and enjoyed their buffet, drinks and music.

After Sunday breakfast of pancakes, we moved on the East Bay, Jost Van Dyke.  We took Les and Susan on a shore hike to the Bubbly Pool.  We stopped at the Taboo bar on the way back to Lady, and were surprised to see Foxy there, and had a nice visit with him.  He always has a joke, but they are not pc enough for me to relate them here.  If you get there...ask him about his island dog (looks a lot like a labrador to me).

Monday we spent at Norman Bight, Tuesday we could not find a mooring at Cooper Island after going in to Nanny Cay for fuel and water, and having a lunch stop at Perter Island's Great Harbour, so we spent the night at Trellis Bay.

Wednesday we went back to North Sound, Virgin Gorda, and picked up a mooring at Leverick Bay.  They have a small grocery store there, so we were able to get a few provisions, and we were in luck...Michael Beams, a legendary pirate entertainer was playing that night!  It was a great show, and Charlie kept winning tokens for free drinks!

We stopped at the bar at lunch-time on Thursday to redeem our tokens, before heading on to a Biras Creek mooring, as Les and Susan wanted to sample the Fat Virgin's dinner menu.

Friday we left North Sound, and this time we got to Cooper Island in time to get a mooring.  The wind came up and it was a rocky night, so we decided Saturday to go to Benures Bay for a quiet night.  

Veltmans' trip was ending, so Sunday (February 27th) we moved around Norman Island to the Bight, had lunch at Pirate's Bight, and drinks on the Willy T before dinner aboard.

 

Monday we move Lady back to Nanny Cay Marina, where we enjoyed the world's best marina showers and had a wonderful final meal together at Peg Legs Resaurant.

Tuesday, George the taxi-driver picked up Les and Susan to take them to the airport for their flights to Tulsa.  

What fun it was to have two such lovely people to stay with us for a couple of weeks.  We hope they want to come back for another visit!

 

Anna in Antigua

Antigua

January 15th to January 22nd, 2011

Anna Louise brought her parents with her to visit us (her grand-parents) aboard Lady in Antigua.

They arrived late on a Saturday night after flying all day from Tulsa, via Dallas and Puerto Rico.

The first day with us we spent a lazy day, so they could relax in the sun after such a long trip.  After breakfast of banana, we opened and modelled Christmas gifts.

We went to the beach, and had a good time, even though there were big waves that splashed her face.  Playing in the sand was lots of fun, and at lunch, Anna had a mango milk-shake while Jenny enjoyed a pina colada.

Next day, we went to Nonsuch Bay.  We all took Dramamine before we left, as we knew that the winds were about 25 knots, and that we'd have quite a long motor to weather.  The side effect of taking Dramamine is drowsiness.  Even though Anna Louise only had a quarter of a Dramamine, she slept for the whole voyage, wearing her little life-tether.  It was most reassuring for all the adults aboard that she was safe and calm.

At Nonsuch, we anchored behind Green Island and went ashore.  More beach time, and a good swim after we got back to the boat.

Tuesday we toured the bay in Lady, and anchored off Harmony Hall, where we went ashore for a wonderful Italian lunch.  The pool is available for lunch guests, but it was in the shade and the water was too cool for us!  We spent the night at anchor in another cove off Nonsuch Bay

Wednesday was the day that Anna's Uncle Mike arrived.  We left Nonsuch and had a wonderful sail along the southern coast of Antigua and pulled in to Falmouth Harbour, where we found a good place to anchor.  Another good meal at the Mad Mongoose.

Thursday morning we walked from Falmouth Harbour to English Harbour, where we enjoyed touring around Nelson's historic dockyard.  Lots of wonderful yachts, historic buildings, cute shops, interesting cannons and ancient anchors.  The museum was worth a visit.

We sailed back to Jolly Harbour Thursday afternoon.

Friday the boys went diving with Jolly Dive, and Olivia, Anna Louise and I spent the morning at Jolly Beach.  The surf wasn't as large as it had been on Sunday, so the water was fun and she had a really good time playing on the sand with her beach toys and all the shells we had found for her.  

We went out to dinner again, a farewell meal, and friends from Kardia and Farhaven were also able to join us and meet the family.

All too soon Anna's week in the Caribbean was over.  The taxi came early Saturday and she was on her way back to Tulsa.

 

 

Jolly Times in Jolly Harbour

Jolly Harbour, Antigua                  17 04.227N 061 53.129W

Sunday January 9th, 2011 to Wednesday January 13th, 2011

The anchor came up in Deshais at 0640, and shortly after that the sail were set for the sail to Antigua.

We checked in with the Coconut Telegraph.  It's a Cruisers Net on the single-side-band radio.   We meet every morning at 0800 and use frequency 4060 upper side band.  That day over 20 cruisers checked in.  Boats from Trinidad to the US Virgin islands connect, and make it easier for friends to stay in touch.

A long morning, but I finished the needlepoint part of a pillow I started when we were in Martha's vineyard in September of 2009!

By 1300 we were at the Jolly Harbour entrance, and as we came up the channel, we were thrilled to see Farhaven leaving.  Tom and Leslie Arnold of McCall, Idaho became good friends when we were cruising last Spring.  They were going our for a day-sail with local friends, so we agreed to meet later on.

By 1430 we had cleared through customs and immigration, and picked up mooring number 1.  A jolly tern made us welcome.  Lesley and Tom had Farhaven at a friend's dock, and were using their villa.  They invited us over for a GREAT pizza that evening, and it was fin to get caught up on what each other had been doing over the summer.

Monday, after doing boat projects, we met Lesley and Tom and some of their friends at the beach.

Tuesday they were able to borrow a car, and we took off together by road to Long Bay, on the Eastern side of Antigua.  We had fun on the beach, swimming, and seeing the Devils Bridge.

Another fun day with good friends.

 

 

 

More of Guadeloupe

Guadeloupe

Wednesday January 5th, 2011

We moved Lady to Fred Marine's dock in time for our 0800 appointment.  I helped Charlie move our mattress out of the way, as it sits on top of the fuel tanks. Fabrice was the lead technician, assisted by Axel and Jourdan, and while I went ashore to get some Internet with my coffee, they emptied bith fuel tanks into jerry cans on the dock, removed all the dirty crud from the bottom of the tanks, filtered the fuel, and got it back into the tanks.  That process was finally finished about 6:30 pm, so it took a while!

Sharon and Don from Williard G came by, and I went with them to Coras, a very large grocery store.  Remember I mentioned that stores were closed Jan 2nd for inventory...well, it seems as though Coras had done their inventory, removed a lot of their stock, and had yet to re-stock.  Many of the freezer cases were empty, the produce available was limited to green peppers and oranges.  I did manage to find some wonderful French cheeses, though.

One all the fuel was in the tank, it took a while to get the engine working satisfactorily as the starboard Racor filter had a problem, but even after his assistants left for the day, Fabrice kept at it and finally we were able to pay, leave the dock and get re-anchored by 8:00 pm.

 Thursday, January 6th, 2011

We swung by Willard G and wished them farewell by singing them our "Happy Sails" song, before exiting the harbor, hoisting sail and having a great sail to Isles Des Saintes, where we anchored at the Bourg, and ventured ashore where I was able to purchase a tablecloth for Lady.

Another US flagged yacht came and anchored near us, a beautiful Oyster called Champlain.  We made friends with Sam and George and later that evening had a lovely dinner ashore together.

 

 

Friday, January 7th, 2011

We left Isles Des Saintes and had another great sail north.  This picture is the lighthouse at Pointe Du Vieux-Fort.  We had planned on spending the night at the anchorage off Malendure, the community near the Pigeon Island Réserve Cousteau, a national marine park. However, there were large swells, and no moorings available in the park for private yachts.  We think that the private yacht moorings were all missing, and only commercial dive-boat moorings were available.  We anchored off the shore, and took the dinghy over to the island, where the snorkeling was wonderful.  More corals and fish that we have seen in quite a while.  We even watched a turtle for a while.

Back on board we decided it was too lumpy to stay where we were, and motor/sailed on north to Deshais, where we had a very comfortable evening. The local baker came around before dark to take our morning order for baguettes and croissants.

Saturday, January 8th, 2011

Our bread arrived shortly after 6:30 am.

Ashore in Deshais we waited by the local dive shop for a ride from the Jardin Botanique.  The garden's van arrived, one of the gardeners driving, and soon we were paying our 14.50 euro enrty fee.  No sooner were we through the gate we were faced with a beautiful pond full of carp.  Of course we had to buy the food and feed the fish.

Farther along was an aviary we could go inside.  The cage had a lot of very sweet coloful Tasmanian Rainbow Lorikeet birds.  They were especially friendly after Charlie purchased nectar

to feed them.

   

 

Needless to say, there were lots of gorgeous plants and flowers in the gardens.

Charlie had fun trying to teach a French macaw to speak English.

There is also a pond of pink flamingos.

By noon we were getting quite hungry, so we went to the garden's restaurant above the water fall and had another delicious French lunch - cod fritters, fettucine del mar, poulet with veggies, rice and mashed sweet potatoes with coconut flan for dessert.

By the time we walked down the hill, Deshais was closed for siesta, so we went back to Lady, and came back to town later to clear out of France, using a few or our remaining euros to purchase some French white wine.

Our evening swim was very refreshing, and we think we saw a green flash as the sun set, but it didn't come through on the camera.

 

 

Kingfisher III

Admiralty Bay, Bequia

Monday December 13th, 2010

When we first arrived in Bequia, a boat by had come by and asked for our business at Kingfisher, a huge former oil-field supply vessel anchored in the middle of Admiralty Bay.

Our last day at Bequia was busy ashore with provisioning and visiting Customs and Immigration to clear out of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.

After lunch, we hailed Kingfisher III, pulled anchor, tied on fenders and headed alongside.

Richard greeted us and took our lines.  We did not need fuel, one of the services they offer, but we did need to fill our water tanks.  Richard had to start a generator on Kingfisher III, in order for the pump to work, and soon we had water going in to our tanks.  He offered Charlie a tour of Kingfisher III, and Charlie headed aboard while I monitored the tank filling.

He came back and got me aboard.  It was interesting to see the ship.  Not only did they sell water and fuel, but also wine and beer, so we purchased some of that as well!

We had made friends with Duff and Chris Walter on Sudiki.  (After seeing the same boat in a number of anchorages, you finally go by and say hello).  They invited us over for drinks and a tour.  Sudiki is a Gulfstar 60, that does private charters.  They have restored her beautifully.  Another fun evening, before our early departure for St. Lucia

 

North to Bequia

Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay, Bequia

13 00.59N 061 14.53W

December 1st to December 12th, 2010

Wednesday was our last day at Clarke's Court Bay, Grenada. Jenny went ashore in the morning, and caught the bus to St Georges, where Island Water World (one of the Caribbean chandlery chains) has a monthly book and DVD exchange.  That night we attended the marina's weekly Burger night, where we had a fun time our friends from Kardia, and also from Astor, the 1923 schooner owned by Lannie and Richard from California, who we had met last March in Antigua.

Thursday we moved Lady around to Prickly Bay, where we purchased water, visited Budget Marine (another Caribbean chandlery chain), purchased a few groceries and had lunch ashore at De Big Fish.  We saw our Irish friends, Norma and Phil on Minnie B, and briefly caught up with them.

Friday we motored in to the wind to Cariacou, and anchored in Tyrell Bay.  It was rather more rolly than the last time we were there, but not too uncomfortable.  The gin-rummy game that night had final scores of Jenny 178, Charlie 122.

Saturday was busy.  We went around the corner and anchored off Hillsborough, passing Ann and Brad (Breezing Up), who were on a mooring off Sandy Island, where Charlie took the dinghy ashore to visit Immigration and Customs and clear us out of Grenada.  Then on to Petite Martinique, the smallest of the Grenada islands where fuel is duty free, so we filled our tanks.  There was quite a bit of surge at the fuel dock, so we did not go ashore for duty-free beverages.  There are lots of colorful fishing boats here.

Then, we motored across the sound to Clifton on Union Island, where we anchored, hailed a local boat boy, who had his young nephew as captain to take Charlie ashore to Customs and Immigration so we could clear in.  I stayed on the boat as Union has a reputation for boat thefts.  Being Saturday, Customs and Immigration was closed, so Charlie had to walk out to the airport to clear us in to the country, not too far.  Once the formalities were done, we left, hoisted sail and sailed around to the leeward side of Union, and anchored in Chatham Bay, where Kardia was already anchored, and Breezing Up came in after us. There were also a few other charter boats and private yachts in the anchorage.  There are a few small bars on the beach, but no access by road to the bay.  Boat boys came by offering meals ashore, but knowing that everything has to be brought in by sea, even their water, we declined.  Kardia invited us and Breezing Up over for a pot-luck cook-out dinner, so I fixed some Caribbean rice and peas, (don't you love cooking in a swim-suit!) packed up a couple of pork chops and off we went.  A fun evening!

Sunday I did some housework, and Charlie did boat maintenance - changed out the started button for the diesel...it had been two years since it failed and caused the failure of the starter motor, so was time to be replaced - he fitted a new anchor to the existing chain for the dinghy and got it and the lies stowed in a large bucket - he also started work on installing the 12 volt rope lights for the cockpit that he had brought from Tulsa.  I worked on knitting a winter hat for Anna Louise.  Breezing Up left for the Tobago Cays.  When it was time to break, we took the dinghy and went snorkeling out by the rocks at the entrance to the bay.  A cruise ship - Golden Clipper, one of the Star Clipper line's boats came in to the bay, so there was a lot of activity on the beach in the afternoon. She sailed off into the sunset at dusk.

Monday Kardia left for Bequia.  We sailed over to the Tobago Cays, and anchored between the reefs and the islands - nothing but ocean between us and Africa.  Breezing Up was there, as were about twenty-five other yachts, mostly French charter-boats.  We went by dinghy and snorkeled in the turtle area, where we saw a half-dozen green turtles.  We also went over to the beach on Jamesby Island and snorkeled there - saw an eel and an octopus in the same piece of brain coral - and also went out to the reef, where we tied on  to a dinghy mooring and snorkeled there.  Various boat boys came by.  We ordered baguettes for breakfast but declined the (expensive!) fresh lobster, T-shirts, jewelry.  Breezing Up came over for drinks, and we had a fun time with Ann and Brad.

Looking for a quieter anchorage, on Tuesday (Dec 7th) we moved around to the inside of Petit Rameau on Tuesday.  Breezing Up came by and waved on their was to Bequia, and we found some lovely clear water off the western point of Petit Rameau for snorkeling.

We thought we would go to Canouan on Wednesday.  Friendship Bay looked like a great place to snorkel, but when we got there the waves and surge were just too much, so we tried Charlestown Bay.  Although The Moorings has their charter base here, it too was too bouncy for us.  We stopped at Cor Bay on the island, long enough to have a nice snorkel, but it was not comfortable enough for an overnight stay, so Charlie waved goodbye to the booby who had settled on the bow pulpit, and we sailed on to Bequia, where we found a lovely place to anchor between Kardia and Breezing Up.  After defrosting the freezer, Velma and Mark, Ann and Brad joined us for drinks, and Ann and Brad stayed on for dinner.

Thursday Daffodil's yacht service came by for our laundry and trash, we went ashore to Port Elizabeth for boat parts (12 volt socket and wire for the rope-light project) and groceries.  

Had a delicious lunch at Jack's Bar on Princess Margaret Beach (aka Tony Gibbons beach)and then joined Velma and Mark for snorkeling off the point at the end of the bay.  There were pelicans and booby birds watching us from the rocks as we swam with thousands of small fish, who were not expecting to be dinner.

Friday we went ashore again to Port Elizabeth.  Here's a picture of the local North Sails loft.  We purchased a few more groceries and then came back to the boat and pulled wire for the new rope lights.  That required three trips down the starboard lazarette for me.  Breezing Up invited us and Kardia for sunset drinks.

Saturday, Kardia left for St. Lucia at dawn, Breezing Up left for St. Vincent shortly after that.  They each have family coming to join them for the holidays; ours won't be with us for about six weeks.  Charlie continued to work on the rope lights; fitting on the socket and connecting it to the master switch board.  Meanwhile, I worked on making shell decorations for our Christmas tree, and got it decorated.  We don't expect that there'll be any gifts under it (there haven't been the past two Christmasses), but it'll get us in the mood, maybe.  We went to Jack's again for lunch, and in the afternoon went snorkeling off the northern point at the entrance to Admiralty Bay, where we saw some of the betters corals we have seen in a long time.

So far today, Charlie has done more boat maintenance, and I've been writing.  More snorkeling planned this afternoon.  Another lovely day!