Aboard Lady

At Sea - Miami Beach to Port Canaveral

Easter Saturday - March 22nd, 2008

(Charlie's report)

Departed Miami Beach Marina 0800. Succeeded in not hitting Tiger Woods’s yacht, Privacy, on way out (although it was tight). (Tiger not yet on deck, but crew carefully watching)!

Motored out channel and hoisted sail 0845. C036, attempting to gain distance from shore and get in Gulf Stream.

1000. Could already see effects of Gulf Stream. S7.3, C010.

1200. C013, S8.1.

1400. C014, S8.8, rain moving in, worst of it to our south.  Saw speed up to 11 knots at times.

1600. C007, S10.6, although only about 20 miles offshore. Gulf Stream much closer to shore then I had thought.  Still intermittent rain, heavy at times, was killing the wind. Motored during these times to maintain speed.

2300. C358, S7.7, still raining from time to time, motor during rain.

Easter Sunday March 23rd, 2008

0100. C344, S7.9

0210. Decision time. Do we change course for Port Canaveral, the last all weather inlet before our destination, St. Marys Inlet, another 140 nm ahead? Weather forecast is for winds to come around to north late the 23rd and strengthen to 10-15 knots, exactly from the direction we are heading. Given the fact that we made the 170 nm from Miami Beach in 18 hours, by a 2-0 vote we decide to press ahead.

0400. C345, S7.5

0500. C351, S6.8

0700 C340, S6.2. Do you notice a trend? As we went west of north and the Gulf Stream turned east on North, we lost it. Speed slowed. 2 knots does seem like much, but 8 knots to 6 knots is a 25% decrease, i.e., you are at sea 33% longer. Motor on to maintain speed.

1000. C341, S 6.0. Wind is starting to fill from the North, light at first. We begin to see large schools of dolphins and large loggerhead turtles.

1200. Wind continues to build. S5.8. Increase rpm from 2000 to 2200.

1600. Wind continues to build as do seas. What started off as 7 knots becomes 6 becomes 5 becomes 4 knots over the course of afternoon. Seas that started off as nothing build to over 4 feet. Every time we hit one just right, boat speed drops in half.  We listen to NOAA weather broadcast for our destination. They have changed forecast to increase wind to 25 knots and use the G word (gale). We can motor at 3 knots, sail to weather at 3 knots VMG for 70 miles or turn around and sail 70 miles back to Port Canaveral. By a 3 to 0 vote (we let the cat vote this time), we retreat to Port Canaveral.

1745. C147, S5.1. We don’t want to arrive before dawn, so we greatly reduce sail. Swells now 6 feet get boat moving with swells, handles great.

Easter Monday, March 24th 2008

0000. C155, S4.9, everything well, was managing to take turns sleeping for 2 hours at a time.

0613. Clear shoal off cape, jib and run to entrance buoy. C220, S6.7.

0700. C227, S6.4 reduce sail, jib only, about 30% out, to keep boat under control.

0820. Approaching outer buoy to Port Canaveral channel when small (30 foot) boat approaches. It is a Pilot boat who radios and requests that we stay outside channel in that they have a cruise ship coming in who will require the entire channel. We looked behind us to see cruise ship coming up at high speed about 4 miles astern.  We of course agreed, and then had conversation about radar watch even after sunrise (try not to make that mistake again). Followed cruise ship into port.

0900. Radio Cape Marina for slip. Wind North at 20 gusting to 25. Docking at slip they assigned us was very risky in this wind.  Got on radio and negotiated docking at end of dock.

0915. Tied up at dock. Nap time for all. Cat very happy.

Miami Beach - still here

Miami Beach Marina 25 46.386N 080 08.507W

Good Friday 2008

There must be worse places in the world to be stuck because the wind is blowing in the wrong direction.  But perhaps none of them quite as expensive, oh well, it's only our children's inheritance... you know now we're 'seniors', living on a 'fixed' income (corn, beans, oil, gas and the stock market all down today :(   )

After listening to the wind all night, we decided that since is was blowing from the north-east, and we need to go north-east, beating in to the seas was NOT going to be fun.  The ocean swells have died down since yesterday, but the local waves are quite big, and it would not be very comfortable.

After not moving too much yesterday, you can imagine how pleased I was when Charlie suggested a walk this morning.  On the way to the beach at the other end of the marina, we saw a large container ship leaving port.  Charlie call this 'Another near miss' (we were standing on the shore!).

We got to the beach and you can see that there are big rollers coming in from the east, and that to beat in to them would be uncomfortable.

We walked down the beach a couple of miles; I gave Charlie an abbreviated Art Deco tour on the way back. We stopped for lunch - they were still serving breakfast, so we gained another pound, despite the five miles we walked today!

Back aboard Lady, we relaxed and Charlie watched the Doral Golf tournament (since we have a cable TV connection on the dock). Other than his beautiful yacht, Privacy, we have not seen any sign of Tiger, although yesterday evening when we were out for a short walk, we did see his dogs. (We were not supposed to take a picture, sorry TW, your staff member told us no, but that was after we had already taken one.)

Charlie was, of course, thrilled this afternoon, when he saw a golf cart going down Pier A.  I am pleased to report that Tiger's doggies leaped of the boat to welcome him home! (After seeing Tiger's dogs jump off the boat to run down the pier to greet him, my opinion of him went way up; just another hard working husband coming home from the office.- CAM)

Steve Williams (TW's caddie) and a bag of clubs were with him and duly moved aboard!

We expect that tomorrow the wind will be favorable, but only for a day or two, so we will leave here, but are not optimistic about staying offshore until Georgia.  Bob Frank, who is Liz Paget's host (Pacific High, see yesterday's post), has returned from his trip and offered us use of his mooring in Palm Beach, but we hope that we'll at least get to Cape Canaveral.

Happy Easter!

Miami Beach Art Deco

Miami Beach Marina 25 46.386N 080 08.507W

First Day of Spring, 2008

Small craft advisory needed for the scuplture's pond?

Charlie studies the weather on his notebook.

As I was fixing dinner the other night, a new dock friend, Liz came by, and stayed for the meal as her hosts had had to make an out-of-town trip, and left her alone in charge of Pacific High, a beautiful ketch also staying here on pier B.

She informed us that she was planning on taking the walking tour that the Miami Design Preservation League was offering the next morning.  I agreed to join her.  Charlie did not want to come.

We met at the agreed time, and rode the South Beach local bus (only $.25) to the Art Deco Headquarters on Ocean Drive.  I managed to persuade the clerk behind the counter that Liz and I were "seniors".  I think that $20 for a 90 minute guided walking tour is a little steep, especially as the tour guide is a volunteer!

Kent, our guide, and about twenty or more others strolled up and down Ocean Drive and Collins Street, noticing the style of the old hotels.  The feelling of being aboard a steamship; the "eyebrows" above the windows, medallions, and portholes, the painting of the bas relief , vertical and horizontal lines, groups of three, glass blocks and aluminum use in construction. 

We went inside a few of the hotels and saw magnificent candelabra, curved bars, wonderful murals on lobby walls and terrazzo floors.

We stopped at designer Gianni Versace's home, Casa Casuarina, to take a picture. (The most photographed building in Miami Beach!)

When our tour was over Liz and I had a lovely lunch at one of the ourdoor cafes on Ocean Drive.

By the time we got back to Lady, Charlie had spent the morning doing boat chores and was asleep.

It looks as though we may have a break in the windy weather tomorrow, so we are planning on trying to go to sea and head north.  We'll see how far we get.

More Art Deco buildings below (if Liz sends me her pictures, I will add more later):

 

Weather in Miami Beach

Miami Beach Marina 25 46.386N 080 08.507W

Tuesday March 18th, 2008

Well, we are still here.

And it looks like we might be here for a while.  The wind has been blowing hard, gusts up to 25 knots, and all the weather forecast services we use (weather.com, weather underground, the Sirius satellite weather) advise that the sea conditions are not very comfortable - seven foot waves  are not something we want to voluntarily put Lady and ourselves through - we might get sea sick! And although seven foot waves from astern could be fun, a hurricane strength storm out in the Atlantic is generating 6 to 8 foot swells from the Northeast. Swells from the Northeast, wind driven waves from the Southeast! Puke City! - Charlie

We walked over to the beach the other day.  As you can see, there are loads of people enjoying Spring Break!

We have made new friends on the dock.  One kind lady lives here and gave me a ride in her car to the grocery store.  People are very friendly. 

Charlie wants me to announce that we are tired of taking the helm, and decided to take a Carnival Cruise, as we watch two or three ships go by here as they leave each evening.  We are the eleventh and twelfth people to the right of the water-slide!

We had considered leaving yesterday morning  until the wind blew so hard.  Another mega-yacht had come in to the marina, and we would have had to get Lady safely out of the slip in a strong cross wind, turn hard to starboard until the end of the pier, then turn hard to port, and squeeze between two mega-yachts.  The price per day to stay in the slip is much less that what is would have cost us to repair any scratches to this fine vessel.  Some readers may know that Privacy is owned by Tiger Woods. Privacy showed up Monday morning. Tiger won the Arnold Palmer Sunday afternoon. When I cash a big check, I take some time off (often years!), but as of today, no Tiger has appeared. Maybe that's one difference between us. - Charlie

So we took the local bus across the bridge to the mainland, and went to the Bayport area.  There's a marina there, with lots of waterfront dining opportunities.  After a delicious lunch at Mambos, a Cuban restaurant, we strolled through the shops there.

Charlie had been complaining that he has somehow lost his new cap that he had been given by the boys from Bay Area Marine Services in Kemah, and that he wanted a new one.  We passed a store that had lots of caps and did embroidery while you waited. He found a cap that fit, we chose a script, it was interesting to see the assistant load the cap and start her machine.  It wasn't long before Charlie had a new boat cap!

We took a cab back to Miami Beach, partly because we were uncertain where to find the stop for the correct bus!

This morning we have been working on routine maintenance to Lady.  I did housework below, and Charlie investigated and fixed a leak from the hot water tank, before working on removing minor rust spots on deck with vinegar and a toothbrush.

The Palm trees around the marina are so pretty with the wind blowing through them.

Travel to Miami Beach, FL

Miami Beach

25 46.386N 080 08.507W

Sunday, March 16th, 2008

We made quite a few new friends during our week at Boot Key.  The Catalina 42 sailors got together Tuesday evening 03/11, and graciously included the sole Catalina 470 in the anchorage.  We enjoyed meeting our hosts Alice and Jim Rutherford (Caloosa Spirit), and the other 42 owners Maureen and Dan O'Brien (Trinity), Terry and Jeff Zukerman (Ariel) and Ginger and David Kauppi (Avalon).  They are all seasoned cruisers, and it was interesting to hear their stories.  Thanks Alice and Jim for arranging this. 

We left the party first, as we had to stow the dinghy before it got dark, ready for our early Wednesday departure. 

Boot Key was very peaceful as we dropped our mooring at about 8:00 am Wednesday.  We have met some wonderful folks here.  I think that we'll be back.

Charlie and the bridge tender became friends over the radio as we left, and the bridge tender sang "Happy Sails to you" over his loudspeaker as we went under the bridge.

                                           Some local fishermen were out looking for breakfast!

Out in the Straits of Florida, the wind was light, and from directly behind us. So we kept the Yanmar running, and headed up Hawks Channel.  The wind came around enough later in the day to us to pull out the jib and motor sail, but it was still very light.

We had planned on anchoring overnight by Rodriguez Key, off Key Largo, but it was only 3 in the afternoon when we passed that point, so we continued on.  We eventually anchored for the night off Old Rhodes Key, totally alone except for an occasional vessel coming and going from the Ocean Reef Club off to our south.

The wind came around to the northwest overnight, and picked up strength.  We motored out to the channel, and set sails.  It was soon apparent that the wind was clocking, and we weren't going to be able to maintain our course under sail, so we furled the jib and started the engine.

Eventually the high-rise buildings of South Florida appeared on the horizon, and we entered the shipping channel.

We were please to get in the Miami Beach Marina; that way we did not have to go under any bridges in this very busy place.

Although we are well secured here at slip B26, there is quite a current running. 

We have ridden the local trolley around South Beach (only .25 each way!).  Spring Break is underway here. For non US readers, that means that the town is full of high-school and college kids having fun.  The motor yacht behind us went out yesterday afternoon with the owner, one hand, and about a dozen lovely young ladies in bikinis.

Here's Charlie checking the bilge.

We expect to depart Miami tomorrow, and head north.  Our present planned destination is Saint Mary's, Georgia, which we think will be a two to three day sail.  If the weather turns foul, we could head for Fort Lauderdale or Palm Beach.

Note to IV, Olivia, Mike and Stephanie: check out the comment from your cousin Coralie on the Life Support post.  Looks like we might need to plan a trip to NZ in the future!

Key West to Miami - Charlie's report

3/3/08
1000 Successfully escaped gravitational force of Key West. 

There are two ways to travel the Keys. On the north side is the ICW. Lady draws 6 feet, too much for this route. The other is Hawks Channel, on the south (Atlantic) side, between the shore and the reefs a few miles off shore. This is our only option.  As luck would have it, the wind (about 20 knots) is again on the nose and the channel is to narrow to short tack up it. So, we motor. C about 081, S6.1.

1600 Anchor down in Boot Key Harbor (Marathon).  Harbor has about 160 moorings administered by Marathon.  None available at present. Breakout dinghy (10 foot inflatable carried upside down on foredeck and 15 hp Yamaha outboard carried on stern pulpit).  Dinghy into marina office to put our name on waiting list.

3/4/08
Receive call about 9 AM that mooring is available. Motor to mooring C12.

Gravity again takes hold. 3 days stay turns into 8 day stay. Actually, weather is forecast to turn bad, no reason to leave good secure mooring in well protected harbor to get knocked around and rained on. Use time for routine maintenance on Lady. Met many interesting boaters in Boot Key. Turns out that many come down from the north in November and stay on mooring until March. Still others leave their boat on mooring year around and drive to their place in Maine by car for the summer. A lot of different plans.

3/12/08
0805. Dropped mooring and motor out to Hawk Channel.  No wind, flat calm. Motor course 082 that by end of day turns to C041. S 7.4 to 8.0.
1810, Anchor down off Old Rhoades Cut. Spend night at anchor with about 3 feet under the keel.

3/13/08
0825. Anchor up and motor into Hawk Channel.
0900. Attempt to sail. C032, S5.7.
0910. Wind headed us, unable to maintain course in channel.  Motor C012, S6.9. Continue to change course to north as channel turns and continue to motor.
1220. Miami harbor entrance (Government Cut).
1240. Miami Beach Marina fuel dock, take on fuel and motor to slip B26. We may not be smallest boat in marina, but its close. Many multimillion dollar yachts here.   

Life support

Boot Key Harbor 24 42.523N 081 05.243W

Sunday March 11th, 2007

The front that covered some areas of the US with snow touched off tornadoes further north in Florida, but by the time it got here was lots of (welcome) rain and (not so welcome) 25 kt wind, and brought the overnight temps down to the 50s, so we had to bring back out the long sleeves.  When it's really windy, we don't get in the dinghy...could be a very wet ride!

Life aboard a sailboat is not all sunny beaches.  Sometimes we just have to do a few things to keep basic life going.  And it takes a LOT longer to get things done that it did at home.

The other day we decided that it was time to do laundry.  I had previously noticed that the marina has three washing machines and five dryers. Should be a breeze, yes?  I changed sheets, we loaded all the dirty clothes into laundry bags, and got them in the dinghy.  Rode ashore, and then walked up to the marina's main room where the machines were located.  It was a very busy place that morning.  As I was looking for a vacant machine, one of the ladies informed me that the end of the line was over there.  There were two other couples with their bags of clothes in front of me!  I dumped our bags and found a book from the lending library.  As a machine became available, the first lady got hers going really quickly.  Two more machines became available. The next lady spent ages just sorting her laundry, and took them.  She had enough for a third load.  Another lady  who was finishing up, sympathized with my wait advised me that dryer C was the best one.  It ended up taking over three hours to get the laundry done!  I did notice that after about 1:00 pm the competition for the facilities eased, so next time I'll wait until the afternoon to do the wash.

At home, I would hop in Liz, my little Z3 car, go to Reasors, buy food for a meal, a few days, a week, whatever was needed, and then be home soon.

Now, first we have to find a grocery store!  We had seen a Publix about a mile east along the Overseas Highway here in Marathon, but someone informed us that there was a Piggly Wiggly closer, that was to the west along the highway.  Provisions, particularly for Sooty, were getting a little low, so it was time to do a major shop.  We loaded our sturdy ice bags into the dinghy and rode ashore.  It seems as though there are many people  living here for the season!  No bikes or scooters for us, we use Shank's pony for transportation.

We headed west towards the Piggly Wiggly.  Two miles later, we conceded that we had been mis-informed.  We had passed a Tom Thumb convenience store, but no grocery.  We turned around, and headed east.  At least we got a really good walk in!

The taxi to take us back to the marina arrived quickly after we rang her.  Then we had to load all our groceries into a cart to take them down the dock, then into the dinghy, then out of the dinghy, then down below, then unpacked and stowed. 

It seemed as though shopping for groceries took most of the day!

(I know that his is kind of a boring post, but that's what we've been doing.)

Here are some pictures of the dolphins that were playing in the harbor the other evening.

   

Another Day at Boot Key

Wednesday March 5th, 2008

24 42.523N 081 05.243W - Boot Key Florida

We spent most of the morning taking care of business, including Charlie negotiating for a new insurance policy for Lady - I can hardly believe that it's been almost two years since we got her!  It looks like our new policy will cost quite a bit less, maybe that's because we are living aboard.  We will still have to be out of Florida from June to November, but that won't be too difficult.

We boarded dinghy to go do some errands ashore.  We docked at the Dockside Bar and Grill, to the southeast of out mooring, and the walked along the road next to the Sombrero Country Club headed for a shopping center.  It was quite warm and although there weren't too many golfers out, someone was having a lesson.  Much of their driving range looked like it was sandy gravel, understandable in this area of little rain.

A great lunch back at the Dockside, and then another dinghy cruise.

At Dog Island, a tiny mangrove island close to Mark 21, we turned to the south down Sister Creek that separates Vaca Key where the city of Marathon is, and Boot Key, that seems to be uninhabited.

We passed tall radio towers.  Also notices informing us that it was government property and we should keep out. 

Charlie says that they are for listening to Cuba.

Further along, the difference between the two keys was dramatic:

Luxury homes to our port on Vaca Key.

   Wild mangroves to starboard on Boot Key.

I spied something in the water ahead of us.  What could that be? A log? A crocodile or alligator?

As we  got closer we could see that it was some kind of gecko, swimming across Sister Creek from Boot Key to Vaca Key, a distance of about a 100 yards across.  If anyone can tell us what this creature is, we'd love to know.  We tried to no get too close, and left him swimming, so as not to distress him too much.  He did not seem to be selling insurance!

Exploring some of the canals that go back into Vaca Key we saw this magnificent Banyan tree.

Doesn't Charlie do a good job as a cruise director?

The cruisers in the area were having a "Meet and Greet" in the evening.  We didn't know anything about it until it was well underway.  We tried to get to it, but the dinghy dock was SO full there was no room for even one more.  It looked like a great time, perhaps we'll meet more of the cruisers later.

It is great to get phone calls and email from friends.  Thanks to all.  Our son Mike has started an AboardLady.com fan club on his Facebook site. Perhaps he will add the contact information to the comments for this post.

Boot Key Harbor

24 42.523N 081 05.243W

Tuesday March 4th, 2008

After spending Sunday preparing to depart, we left Key West early Monday morning.  We had GREAT wind 15+ knots.  Unfortunately it was from the East, the direction we were headed, so the Yanmar got a good workout.

We arrived at the entrance to Marathon, on Vaca Key, about 3:30 that afternoon.  The anchorage is guarded by a bridge to nowhere (Charlie says it goes to federal property on Boot Key, but all I can see are very tall radio antennas and mangroves). Charlie hailed the very friendly bridge tender, who promptly raised the bridge and advised us to call the City Marina for a mooring.  The marina told us that all 226 moorings were taken, and that we should anchor in the anchorage area to the south-east of the bridge, dinghy in to the marina and put out name on a waiting list.  Which we did.  As we dinghied up the channel, a dolphin jumped next to us.  As I was rummaging through the backpack to get the camera, Charlie said "Don't bother.  You have taken tons of pictures of dolphins that never turn out."  At that moment the dolphin jumped six feet in the air, completely out of the water, and almost landed in the dinghy with us! We were soaked!  Of the hundreds of dolphins we've seen, none of them ever did this before.  Charlie thinks this one was an escapee from Sea World.

We ended up at the marina, separate areas for hard and soft dinghies, great book exchange, laundry facility, TVs, Internet, etc. and duly registered to be fourth in line for available moorings.

Tuesday morning I watched vessels leaving, and it wasn't long before the marina called informing us of our assignment of mooring C12.  We moved and managed to pick up the mooring without incident.  It's amazing how they have all the moorings in very straight rows.

Once we were organized, we went ashore and officially registered at the marina, and after lunch ashore did a dinghy cruise of the harbor.  This time we did not have to call the bridge tender to raise the bridge!

  There are all sorts of vessels here.  From all destinations; all over the East coast; we even saw one from California, a few from Canada, and two mooring balls down is one from Lymington (UK). Some are well maintained, and others are falling apart.  There are mostly sailing vessels, although a fair number of motor yachts too.  It seems as though the marinas with slips have more of the motor yachts.

Like many areas of Florida, there are numerous canals going back with beautiful homes and boats out back.

Back at Lady we lazed in the cockpit waving as passing dinghies and I managed to get a picture of the dolphin swimming by, but no acrobatics this time!

The local water-taxi, the Smorgasboat, came by and dropped of a welcome package - a heavy duty tote-bag from West Marine, a bilge blotter, and lots of information about Marathon.

Something was floating by that caught the attention of the local birds.  They were diving, and there ended up being quite a crowd of them.

We took the dinghy over to a dockside restaurant for dinner.  The place was full of boaters, and everyone was very friendly.  People bring their dogs to the restaurant.  One couple we talked to had a boat cat that we had previously seen sitting on top of the bimini! 

Gravity must be quite strong here.  We also heard of a number of people who came for a week, and are still here months later.  We don't plan on that happening to us.

Some of our family and friends would like to join us.  Charlie has worked on an itinerary that I have included as a separate page that appears on the left as "When and Where".

Cats of Key West

Key West, Florida

Saturday, March 1st, 2008

This post is for my cat-lover friends, especially Anneke and Marcy.

  We played tourists today, and amongst other things we visited the house that Ernest Hemingway lived in with his 2nd wife Pauline Pfeiffer, while in Key West.  According to out guide "Hem" had as many as 60 cats on the one acre property.  Today they have descendants of his cats.  His friend had given him a polydactyl cat; apparently old sailors considered it to be particularly lucky to have a six (or more) toed cat aboard.

Anyway, of the 47 cats living at the Hemingway House, many of them carry the polydactyl gene, even though they may not have an extra toe.  These cats can roam the whole property, however, many of them have staked out their own territories.  The vet comes by weekly to check any kitty needing medical treatment.  There are about nine feeding stations, and the docents seemed to have plenty of kitty treats in their pockets.

The Galleon Resort has notices that no pets are allowed on the resort property.  That does not apply to the marina.  And apparently nobody told resort management about the homeless kitties that hang around there.  The security guards seem to feed them, and the fishing charters also seem to toss them lots of scraps as they are cleaning the fish.  Each evening there seem to be three of four cats hanging around the docks when the boats come in. 

The security guard told me that one of the cats  got snagged by a person fishing from the dock.  They got the hook out of him, and now his name is "Hooks". 

Local vets have spayed and neutered many of the free-roaming cats of Key West.  Those cats are easliy identified by a nick in their ear.

Shooey is cruising with his folks aboard a motor yacht.  He's only about 9 months old.

And then, of course, we have our own 13 year old resident polydactyl cat, Sooty, who is still very much alive, IV, continues to be scared to come outside, but seems to be getting much more use to life afloat.

We hope that all our shore cat friends are doing well!